Cucumber yoghurt dip (Kheera raita)

1. Peel the cucumber and grate it coarsely. Squeeze out the juice well with your hands or in a sieve so the raita isn't watery.

2. Toast the cumin seeds in a dry pan for 1 minute until fragrant and slightly darker, then crush coarsely in a mortar.

3. Whisk the yoghurt in a bowl until smooth.

4. Stir in the cucumber, most of the toasted cumin, the finely chopped mint and a pinch of salt.

5. Transfer to a bowl and sprinkle the top with the remaining cumin and a pinch of chilli powder.

6. Serve cold with biryani, pulao or spicy curries: it cools the mouth.

Tip: Raita is the "fire extinguisher" of the Indian table: the fat and protein in yoghurt neutralise the heat of chilli. Toasted cumin gives the real flavour, so don't skip this step.