Crispy spirals in saffron syrup (Jalebi)

1. Mix the flour with the yoghurt and water into a smooth, thick but pourable batter (like a thick pancake batter). Cover and leave in a warm place for 12-24 hours to ferment until bubbly and slightly sour-smelling.

2. For the syrup, bring the sugar and water to the boil, add the saffron and cardamom and simmer for 5-6 minutes until slightly sticky (it forms a short thread between two fingers). Stir in the lemon juice, which stops it crystallising, and keep warm.

3. Stir the fermented batter well and spoon it into a piping bag with a nozzle of about 3 mm, or a strong bag with a hole cut in one corner.

4. Heat the ghee over medium heat in a smaller, wide frying pan. Pipe the batter straight into the hot ghee, making 7-8 cm spirals from the outside inwards.

5. Fry the spirals for 1-2 minutes on each side until crisp and pale golden, drain and put them straight into the warm syrup for 30-40 seconds so the insides fill with syrup.

6. Lift out and serve while still warm and crisp, on their own or with rabri, sweet reduced milk.

Tip: In India, jalebis are bought hot from street vendors for Sunday breakfast. Your first spirals will usually be irregular; that's perfectly fine, it's the flavour that counts. If you don't have time to ferment the batter, stir in half a teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda and fry straight away.