Wholewheat Indian flatbread (Chapati)

1. Put the flour and salt in a bowl and gradually pour in the lukewarm water, stirring, until you have a soft, slightly sticky dough.

2. Knead for 8-10 minutes until smooth and elastic, then cover and rest for 30 minutes: it will be easier to roll and the chapatis will be softer.

3. Divide the dough into 8 balls. Roll each on a floured surface into a thin 15-18 cm round, turning often so it stays evenly round.

4. Heat a frying pan (or an Indian tawa) over medium-high heat, add the round and, when small bubbles appear underneath (about 30 seconds), turn it over.

5. Cook the other side for 30-40 seconds, then hold it with tongs directly over the gas flame, where it will puff up like a balloon in a few seconds (without a gas flame, press it gently in the pan with a folded tea towel).

6. Brush with a little ghee while still hot and keep warm wrapped in a tea towel while you cook the rest.

Tip: The everyday bread of North Indian homes, used instead of a spoon to scoop up curry and dal. Atta, the very finely milled Indian wholewheat flour, makes it soft; if you can only find coarser wholewheat flour, mix it half and half with plain flour.