Kashmiri lamb curry (Rogan josh)

1. Cut the lamb shoulder into 4-5 cm cubes. Whisk the yoghurt with the chilli powder until smooth (in Kashmir they use mild, bright red Kashmiri chilli).

2. Heat the ghee in a heavy pan, add the black and green cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, bay leaves and asafoetida and fry for 30 seconds until fragrant.

3. Add the meat and brown well on all sides over high heat, in batches (about 10 minutes).

4. Turn the heat down to medium and add the chilli yoghurt a spoonful at a time, stirring constantly so it doesn't split; keep stirring until the moisture of the yoghurt has cooked off.

5. Stir in the ground fennel, ground ginger and salt, pour in the water, cover and simmer gently for 1-1½ hours until the meat is tender and reddish ghee appears on the surface.

6. Serve with basmati rice or naan.

Tip: The Kashmiri Pandit (Hindu) version is made without onion or garlic, with fennel and dried ginger, and this recipe follows it. "Rogan" means red fat: the curry is right when a layer of red ghee floats on top.