Hyderabadi lamb biryani (Hyderabadi gosht biryani)

1. Cut the lamb into 4-5 cm pieces and mix with all the marinade ingredients (squeeze the lemon; chop the mint, coriander and fried onions). Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.

2. Wash the rice several times until the water runs clear and soak for 30 minutes. Soak the saffron in the warm milk.

3. In a large pot bring the water to the boil with the bay leaves, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and salt (it should be as salty as the sea), add the drained rice and cook for 5-6 minutes until 70% done: the centre of the grain is still firm. Drain immediately.

4. Pour half the ghee into a wide, heavy pan and spread the marinated meat with its marinade over the base. Layer the rice on top, then sprinkle with the fried onions, mint and coriander and drizzle with the saffron milk, kewra water and remaining ghee.

5. Seal the pan tightly (with foil or a strip of dough under the lid) and cook "dum" style: 5 minutes over high heat, then on a heat diffuser over the lowest heat for 45-50 minutes. Rest for 10 minutes before serving.

6. Serve carefully, scooping from the bottom so every plate gets both meat and rice; accompany with mirchi ka salan or cucumber raita.

Tip: This is "kacchi" (raw) biryani: the meat goes into the pan raw and marinated and cooks in its own steam together with the rice. Kewra water (screwpine flower essence) gives the festive aroma; if you can't find it, a few drops of rose water will do.