Lamb yakhni pilaf (Yakhni pulao)

1. Wash the rice several times and soak for 30 minutes. Tie the coriander seeds, fennel seeds, black cardamom, cinnamon, cloves and bay leaves in a piece of muslin (or a tea filter).

2. Put the lamb cut into large pieces, the quartered onion, ginger, garlic, spice bag, salt and water into a large pot. Bring to the boil, skim and simmer covered over low heat for 60-70 minutes until the meat is tender.

3. Lift out the meat and strain the liquid; measure out 900 ml of yakhni (stock), topping up with water if needed.

4. Heat the ghee in a heavy pan, add the cumin seeds, then the thinly sliced onions and fry for 12 minutes until deep brown. Add the meat, the slit green chillies and the yoghurt and fry for 5 minutes.

5. Add the drained rice, turn gently for 1 minute, pour in the hot yakhni, stir in the garam masala and season with salt. Cook uncovered until the liquid has reduced to the level of the rice, then cover tightly and steam over the lowest heat for 15 minutes.

6. Rest for 10 minutes, fluff with a fork and serve with raita or an onion and cucumber salad (kachumber).

Tip: The difference between pulao and biryani: in pulao the rice cooks in the meat stock and every grain absorbs its flavour, while in biryani the rice is cooked separately and layered. It's a festive dish in Kashmir and Pakistan.