1. Toast the pumpkin seeds in a dry pan over medium heat, shaking constantly, for 4-5 minutes until they start popping and smell fragrant; leave to cool.
2. In the same pan, char the tomatoes and the whole habanero for 8-10 minutes, turning, until their skins are blackened in spots.
3. Grind the cooled pumpkin seeds to a fine meal in a food processor.
4. Add the charred tomatoes (skins and all), the habanero – just half to start with, as it's very hot – salt and a little water, and blend into a thick, creamy paste.
5. Spoon into a bowl and sprinkle generously with finely chopped coriander and chives; season with lime juice.
6. Serve at room temperature with tortilla chips or fresh vegetable sticks.
Tip: Sikil p'aak is a Mayan dish – if you have no habanero, a little chili powder adds heat, but nothing replaces the habanero's fruity aroma.
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