Smashed cucumber salad (Pai huanggua)

1. Wash the cucumbers, trim the ends and bash them with the flat of a wide knife blade or a rolling pin until they crack and split open.

2. Cut diagonally into 3-4 cm pieces, sprinkle with the salt, toss and leave for 10 minutes; then pour off the liquid.

3. Finely chop or crush the garlic.

4. For the dressing, mix the garlic, black rice vinegar, soy sauce, sugar and sesame oil.

5. Toss the cucumber with the dressing and drizzle with the chilli oil.

6. Serve immediately or chill for 15 minutes.

Tip: China's most popular cold salad starter. The smashing isn't just for show: the dressing clings far better to the irregular, cracked surface than to sliced cucumber.