Twice-cooked pork (Huiguo rou)

1. Put the pork belly in one piece into cold water with half the ginger and the Shaoxing rice wine, bring to the boil, then simmer gently for 20-25 minutes until a chopstick pierces it easily.

2. Lift out the pork and cool it completely (in the fridge if you like), as only cold meat can be sliced thinly and neatly; then cut it into large slices 3 mm thick.

3. Cut the leek diagonally into 3 cm pieces and thinly slice the garlic and the remaining ginger.

4. Heat the wok over medium heat, add the oil and the pork slices and fry until the fat renders and the edges curl up into little "lanterns".

5. Push the pork to the side of the wok, fry the doubanjiang and black bean sauce in the rendered fat for half a minute until the oil turns red, then add the garlic and ginger and toss everything together with the pork.

6. Add the leek, soy sauce and sugar and toss over high heat for 1-2 minutes until the green of the leek just wilts; serve with rice.

Tip: In Sichuan this is the "family dish": the cooking liquid isn't wasted but becomes soup the next day. If your doubanjiang is very salty, feel free to leave out the soy sauce.