Peking duck (Beijing kaoya)

1. Clean the duck and trim the excess fat at the neck and tail; rub the cavity with the salt and the Chinese five-spice.

2. Bring the water to the boil and pour it over the duck several times while holding it on a rack, until the skin tightens; for the glaze, mix the honey with the rice vinegar and 100 ml hot water, and brush it over the skin.

3. Place the duck uncovered on a rack in the fridge overnight so the skin dries out completely – this is what later makes it glassy and crisp.

4. Preheat the oven to 200 °C, lay the duck breast-side up on a rack over a tray half-filled with water and roast for 20 minutes, then at 170 °C for another 60-70 minutes, brushing again with the glaze at the end.

5. Meanwhile, for the pancakes, knead the flour with the hot water and sesame oil into a smooth dough, divide it into 12 pieces, roll them paper-thin and cook each side in a dry pan for half a minute.

6. Rest the duck for 10 minutes, then cut the crisp skin and the meat into thin slices; serve with the pancakes, hoisin sauce and strips of cucumber and spring onion, letting everyone roll their own.

Tip: The key to crisp skin is drying: if you have time, leave the duck in the fridge for up to 24 hours, or help it along with a hairdryer at the end. Save the dripped duck fat – it makes fantastic roast potatoes.