Persian lamb and chickpea stew-soup (Abgoosht)

1. Soak the chickpeas and white beans overnight.

2. In a large pan cover the lamb, cut into large pieces, with the quartered onion, drained pulses and turmeric with the water, bring to the boil, skim and cook covered over low heat for 2 hours.

3. Add the pierced dried limes, tomato purée, quartered tomatoes and peeled, halved potatoes, season with salt and pepper and cook for 40 more minutes.

4. Strain the broth and ladle into bowls; serve with lavash or pita torn into small pieces to crumble into it (tirit).

5. Mash the solids (meat, pulses, potatoes, tomatoes) in a bowl with a potato masher or pestle into a coarse paste (gusht kubideh).

6. Serve the meat paste separately with fresh herbs, red onion and pickles.

Tip: Abgoosht (dizi) is a classic of Tehran tea houses, eaten as two courses: first the broth with bread crumbled into it, then the mashed meat and vegetable paste spread on bread. If you have no dried lime, the zest and juice of a lemon add sour freshness.