Manhattan Clam Chowder

Manhattan-style chowder is a legacy of the New York docks: a tomatoey, rosy, sea-scented soup that is rich and filling even without cream.

1. In a large pot, over a medium heat, render the diced smoked bacon, until it releases its fat and browns crisp.

2. Throw in the finely chopped onion, the sliced celery stalk and the diced carrot, and braise them for 8 minutes, until the onion softens glassy.

3. Add the crushed garlic, the diced tomato and the tomato purée, and fry them together for 1-2 minutes, so the purée takes on a sweetish flavour.

4. Pour in water, and add the diced potato, the bay leaf and the thyme.

5. Bring it to the boil, then cook it for 20-25 minutes, until the potato breaks easily with a fork.

6. Add the clams, and simmer it only a further 5 minutes – clams toughen quickly if overcooked. Season with black pepper, and serve sprinkled with fresh parsley.

Tip: This chowder is tomatoey, not creamy – the eternal dispute of New York and New England. Do not put milk in it!