Xi'an lamb soup with torn flatbread (Yangrou paomo)

1. Cut the lamb shoulder into large pieces, soak in cold water for 1 hour, then blanch in boiling water for 5 minutes and rinse; bring to the boil with the water, sliced ginger, star anise, Sichuan pepper and cinnamon and simmer gently for 2.5 hours, salting at the end.

2. Meanwhile knead the flour with the salt and water into a stiff dough, rest for 30 minutes, divide into 6 and roll each into a 1 cm thick flatbread.

3. Cook the flatbreads in a dry pan over medium heat for 5-6 minutes on each side until firm and spotted brown; leave to cool.

4. Soak the glass noodles and wood ear mushrooms in lukewarm water for 15 minutes and cut the mushrooms into strips; lift out and slice the lamb and strain the broth.

5. At the table everyone tears their own flatbread into pea-sized pieces in their bowl; then add the noodles and mushrooms to the hot broth, simmer for 2 minutes and ladle over the torn bread together with the lamb slices.

6. Sprinkle with coriander and spring onions and serve with chilli oil and thinly sliced raw garlic.

Tip: The legendary dish of Xi'an's Muslim quarter: tearing the bread is a leisurely shared ritual – the smaller the pieces, the better they soak up the broth. It's traditionally eaten with sweet pickled garlic – if you can find it, serve that instead of fresh.