"Tiger salad" with green chilli and coriander (Laohu cai)

1. Deseed the green chillies (leave the seeds in if you like it hotter) and cut them into thin diagonal strips.

2. Cut the coriander, leaves and stems, into 4 cm lengths.

3. Cut the spring onions into 4 cm lengths, then lengthways into thin strips.

4. Cut the cucumber into matchsticks.

5. For the dressing, mix the black rice vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, salt and sesame oil.

6. Just before serving, toss the vegetables with the dressing and serve immediately.

Tip: A salad from north-east China, named for its "wild" heat. It's best with fatty, fried dishes such as grilled skewers: it refreshes and wakes up the palate. Dress it only just before serving, or it wilts.