South Indian filter coffee (Filter kaapi)

1. Brew the coffee with the chicory into a very strong, thick decoction: traditionally in the two-part South Indian metal filter, but a stovetop moka pot or a French press with less water than usual works well too.

2. Bring the milk to the boil in a small pan and take it off the heat to cool slightly.

3. Divide the sugar between four small glasses or cups and pour about 50 ml of hot coffee decoction into each. Stir to dissolve the sugar.

4. Top up with the hot milk, about 100 ml per cup.

5. Froth it the traditional way: pour the coffee from a height from the glass into a small bowl (a "dabara") and back a few times until the top is foamy.

6. Serve at once, piping hot, for breakfast or with dosa and idli.

Tip: The essential morning drink of Tamil Nadu and Karnataka. Chicory adds body and a slightly bitter, caramel flavour and makes the coffee go further: South Indian blends typically contain 20-30% chicory. If you have no chicory, very strong espresso works well too.