Crispy lentil doughnuts (Medu vada)

1. Soak the urad dal in cold water for 4 hours, then drain thoroughly.

2. Grind it in a blender with only 2-3 tablespoons of ice-cold water to a very smooth, thick, airy batter. Beat it by hand in a bowl for 3-4 minutes to incorporate even more air: a small piece dropped into water should float.

3. Stir in the chopped onion, grated ginger, finely chopped green chillies, chopped curry leaves, coarsely crushed black pepper and salt.

4. Heat the oil in a smaller, deep pan. Wet your hands, put a lemon-sized ball of batter on your palm, flatten it slightly and press a hole in the centre with your thumb.

5. Slide it gently into the oil and fry 2-3 at a time, turning, for 3-4 minutes until golden and crisp. Lift onto kitchen paper.

6. Serve hot with sambar and coconut chutney: crisp outside, soft and feather-light inside.

Tip: Vada is a breakfast classic of South Indian restaurants, often served with idli. The batter must not be watery or it will fall apart in the oil; if it does turn out soft, a tablespoon of rice flour will rescue it.