South Indian coconut chutney (Nariyal chutney)

1. Soak the desiccated coconut in the lukewarm water for 10 minutes so it softens and regains the juiciness of fresh coconut.

2. Toast the chana dal in a dry frying pan, stirring, until golden brown: this gives the chutney its nutty flavour and creamy body.

3. Put the soaked coconut with its soaking water, the toasted chana dal, green chillies, sliced ginger and salt in a blender and blend to a smooth, thick paste. Add a little water if too thick.

4. Transfer to a bowl.

5. For the tadka, heat the coconut oil in a small pan, add the mustard seeds and, when they start to pop, add the urad dal, dried chilli and curry leaves; let them sizzle for half a minute until the dal is golden.

6. Pour the hot spiced oil over the chutney and serve with dosa, idli or vada.

Tip: The cornerstone of the South Indian breakfast table; dosa or idli is unthinkable without it. Even better with fresh coconut: grate the flesh of one coconut and skip the soaking. It keeps in the fridge for one day at most.