Rigatoni with guanciale and pecorino (Rigatoni alla gricia)

1. Trim the rind off the guanciale and cut it into 1 cm strips; finely grate the pecorino romano.

2. Cook the rigatoni in plenty of lightly salted water (the guanciale and cheese are both salty) for 2 minutes less than the stated time.

3. Meanwhile, heat a wide frying pan without oil and cook the guanciale over medium heat for 6-8 minutes until the fat renders and the edges crisp; add the coarsely crushed pepper and toast for 30 seconds.

4. Pour a ladleful of pasta water into the pan, swirl it with the fat, then add the drained rigatoni and finish cooking for 2 minutes, tossing and adding more cooking water as needed.

5. Off the heat and after 30 seconds of cooling, add the pecorino and toss vigorously until the fat, water and cheese come together into a creamy sauce.

6. Serve immediately with a little extra pecorino and pepper.

Tip: Gricia is the "grandmother" of carbonara and amatriciana: even without egg or tomato it's complete, as long as you work the guanciale fat and pasta water together well.