1. Soak the beef bones in cold water for 3-4 hours (changing the water several times), then blanch in boiling water for 10 minutes, drain and wash the bones thoroughly.
2. Put the bones in a large stockpot with the 4 litres of water and boil uncovered at a fairly strong rolling boil – this is what makes the soup milky white; top up with hot water if too much evaporates.
3. After 2 hours, add the whole beef brisket and the garlic and cook for another 1.5 hours until the meat is tender, then remove the meat and cook the bones for another 1-2 hours.
4. Strain the broth, let it cool and skim off the fat; slice the brisket thinly.
5. To serve, bring the broth to the boil with the meat slices; meanwhile cook the somen noodles, rinse them and divide them into deep bowls.
6. Ladle the hot broth and meat over the noodles and sprinkle generously with finely chopped spring onion; everyone adds salt and pepper themselves at the table.
Tip: Seolleongtang is one of Seoul's oldest dishes – the soup is deliberately left unseasoned so everyone can season it to taste, and it is eaten with kimchi, especially kkakdugi. The cooking takes a long time, but it's worth making a big batch, as it freezes well.
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