Merchant-style buckwheat with pork (Grechka po-kupecheski)

1. Pick over the buckwheat, rinse it in cold water and toast it in a dry frying pan for 3-4 minutes until fragrant – this keeps the grains separate.

2. Cut the pork shoulder into 2 cm cubes; brown them all over in the oil over high heat in a heavy-based pan.

3. Add the finely chopped onion and coarsely grated carrot and fry for 5 minutes, then stir in the tomato purée and crushed garlic and cook for another minute.

4. Pour in a third of the water, cover and braise for 20 minutes until the meat is half-tender.

5. Scatter the buckwheat over the top, pour in the rest of the hot water, add the bay leaf, season with salt and pepper, cover and cook without stirring over low heat for 20 minutes, until the buckwheat has absorbed all the liquid.

6. Take off the heat and rest, covered, for 10 minutes, then fluff up and serve with pickled cucumbers or a fresh vegetable salad.

Tip: This "merchant-style" one-pot dish was a favourite in 19th-century Russian inns; don't stir the buckwheat while it cooks, or it will turn mushy.