Isan tamarind and chilli dipping sauce (Nam chim chaeo)

1. Toast the rice in a dry frying pan until golden, then grind finely in a mortar.

2. Warm the tamarind paste, fish sauce and palm sugar gently in a small pan, stirring until the sugar dissolves; leave to cool.

3. Stir in the lime juice and chilli flakes.

4. Slice the shallots paper-thin and finely chop the coriander.

5. Just before serving, stir the shallots, coriander and toasted rice powder into the sauce.

6. Serve in small bowls with grilled meats, such as Nam tok mu, grilled chicken or beef.

Tip: The classic partner to Isan's grilled meats: sour, sweet, salty and smoky-hot all at once. Add the rice powder only at the end or it turns soggy; the base keeps for 1 week in the fridge.