Georgian sour plum sauce (Tkemali)

1. Wash the tkemali plums, put in a pan, add 200 ml of water and cook covered over low heat for 15-20 minutes until the skins split and the flesh falls apart.

2. Leave to cool a little, then press through a sieve so the stones and skins stay behind; return the smooth purée to the pan.

3. Very finely chop the garlic, chilli and herbs (dill, coriander, mint), or pound them to a paste with the salt in a mortar.

4. Bring the plum purée to the boil, stir in the herb paste, ground coriander seed and sugar and simmer over low heat, stirring often, for 10 minutes until it's the thickness of sour cream.

5. Taste: it should be tart, aromatic and slightly hot; adjust with salt or sugar if needed, then pour into hot sterilised jars.

6. Once cool, serve with roast chicken, shashlik or fried potatoes – the "ketchup" of Georgian cooking, found on every table.

Tip: Instead of tkemali plums, use unripe, sour green or red plums (such as greengages), and if they're not sour enough, add a little lemon juice. It keeps for weeks in the fridge.