1. Cut the chicken thighs in half at the joint, pat them dry with kitchen paper, then place skin side down in a wide, heavy-based pan without any fat and brown over medium heat for 10-12 minutes so the fat renders out; turn and brown the other side too.
2. Cut a cross in the base of the tomatoes, dip them in boiling water for 30 seconds, cool in cold water, then peel and dice finely; slice the onions into thin half-moons, crush the garlic and finely chop the chilli.
3. Lift the chicken onto a plate, add the butter and onions to the fat left in the pan and cook gently for 8-10 minutes until soft and lightly golden.
4. Return the chicken to the onions, pour over the tomatoes, add the chilli and the khmeli suneli spice blend, season with salt and pepper, cover and simmer over low heat for 35-40 minutes until the meat is tender and the sauce is thick and rich; if it's too thin, cook uncovered for the last 10 minutes.
5. Take the pan off the heat and stir in the garlic and the chopped coriander, basil and dill, then cover and leave to rest for 5 minutes so the herbs perfume the whole dish.
6. Serve in deep plates with plenty of sauce, with fresh bread (traditionally Georgian shoti bread) or lavash for mopping up.
Tip: If you can't find khmeli suneli, mix your own: 1 tsp ground coriander seed, half a tsp fenugreek seed, half a tsp dried dill, a pinch of dried mint and a little dried marigold petals (or safflower) – it's the all-purpose spice of Georgian cooking.
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