Duck and leek soba soup (Kamo nanban soba)

1. Score the duck skin closely and cut the meat into 5 mm slices; cut the leek into 4 cm pieces.

2. In a dry frying pan, char the leek in patches over medium heat for 5 minutes, turning, then remove.

3. Place the duck slices skin-side down in the pan and fry for 2 minutes until the fat renders; remove the meat and keep 1 tablespoon of the fat.

4. Bring the dashi to the boil with the soy sauce, mirin and reserved duck fat, add the duck and leek and simmer for 2 minutes – the meat should stay pink inside.

5. Cook the soba for the time on the packet, drain, rinse in cold water, then reheat briefly in hot water.

6. Divide the noodles between hot bowls, ladle over the soup with the duck and leek and serve with a pinch of chilli flakes.

Tip: "Nanban" refers to the Portuguese traders who brought leeks and chilli into Japanese cooking in the 16th century. Don't cook the duck for more than 2 minutes or it will turn tough.