Barberry rice with chicken (Zereshk polo ba morgh)

1. Rinse the basmati rice and soak in salted water for 1 hour. Meanwhile, in a pan fry one thinly sliced onion in the oil, add the turmeric and the chicken thighs, brown on both sides, pour in the water, season with salt and pepper and cook covered for 40 minutes.

2. Boil the rice in plenty of salted water for 6-7 minutes, then drain.

3. Put 30 g melted butter and 2 tbsp water in the bottom of a pan, pile the rice in a cone, poke a few holes in it with the end of a wooden spoon, wrap the lid in a tea towel, put it on and steam over low heat for 40 minutes so a tahdig crust forms at the bottom.

4. Grind the saffron and steep in 3 tbsp hot water; mix some of the rice with it and drizzle the remaining melted butter over the rice.

5. Rinse the barberries and toss them in a small frying pan in the butter with the sugar and the second onion, thinly sliced and fried, for 1-2 minutes (no longer, or they burn).

6. Pile the white and saffron rice onto a platter, scatter the barberries on top, place the chicken with its sauce alongside and serve the crispy tahdig too.

Tip: Barberries (zereshk) are tiny, ruby-red, very tart berries that Persian cooking uses like jewels. Soak them in cold water for 10 minutes before frying so they plump up. If you can't find them, dried cranberries work, with less sugar.