Balinese spiced slow-cooked chicken (Ayam betutu)

1. Blitz the shallots, garlic, fresh turmeric, galangal, ginger, chillies, coriander seeds, pepper and shrimp paste to a paste, then fry in the oil for 5 minutes and season with salt.

2. Rub the chicken inside and out with lime juice and pat dry.

3. Stuff half the spice paste into the cavity together with the bruised lemongrass, and rub the rest thoroughly over and under the skin.

4. Wrap the chicken tightly in banana leaves (or a double layer of foil) so the steam can't escape.

5. Bake at 160 °C for 2-2½ hours until the meat is falling off the bone.

6. Unwrap, spoon the juices over the chicken and serve with rice and steamed vegetables.

Tip: A ceremonial dish of Bali, traditionally cooked all day buried in embers. If you don't have fresh turmeric, 2 teaspoons of ground will do; base genep paste keeps for months in the freezer.