Azerbaijani saj-griddle lamb with vegetables (Saj ichi)

1. Cut the leg of lamb into 3 cm cubes, season with salt and pepper and marinate for 30 minutes with half the onions, sliced into half-moons.

2. Peel the potatoes and cut into thick rounds, slice the aubergines into 1.5 cm rounds, salt them and pat dry after 10 minutes; quarter the peppers and leave the tomatoes whole.

3. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in the centre of a saj (a domed cast-iron griddle) or a large cast-iron pan and brown the meat with the onions over high heat on all sides, then pile it in the centre of the pan.

4. In the remaining oil, fry the potatoes, aubergines, peppers and whole tomatoes around the edges, turning them until they soften and take on nice brown patches; meanwhile the meat keeps cooking slowly in its own juices (about 25-30 minutes).

5. Season with salt and pepper and lay the lavash sheets on top for 2-3 minutes so they warm through and soak up the tasty juices.

6. Put the saj straight in the middle of the table and let everyone help themselves to meat and vegetables wrapped in lavash – a sociable, sharing dish.

Tip: Saj ichi is a favourite at Azerbaijani feasts: the meat cooks on the domed centre of the saj and the vegetables on its cooler rim, so everything is ready at once. It's also delicious with beef or chicken instead of lamb.