Armenian grilled trout (Ishkhan khorovats)

1. Rinse the cleaned trout under cold water, pat thoroughly dry inside and out with kitchen paper, then score the skin diagonally 3-4 times on each side.

2. Season the fish inside and out with salt and pepper; put 2 thin lemon slices and a few sprigs of fresh tarragon in each cavity and set the remaining tarragon aside.

3. Melt the butter, brush it over the fish on all sides and leave at room temperature for 10 minutes; meanwhile heat the grill (with charcoal you want glowing embers, no flames).

4. Put the trout in a fish grilling basket or on an oiled rack and grill for 5-6 minutes per side until crisp, brushing once or twice with the remaining melted butter; they're done when the dorsal fin pulls out easily.

5. Transfer the fish to a platter, drizzle with the rest of the butter and a little lemon juice and scatter with the chopped leaves of the reserved tarragon.

6. Serve hot with lavash, grilled vegetables or a fresh salad and lemon wedges.

Tip: Armenians grill the famous ishkhan trout of Lake Sevan on skewers over vine-cutting embers – if you have no grill, it also turns out beautifully in a 220 °C oven on baking paper in 15-18 minutes.