Wontons in red chilli oil (Hongyou chaoshou)

1. Very finely chop the ginger and the white part of the spring onions; stir the minced pork with the soy sauce, Shaoxing rice wine, white pepper, water and cornflour in one direction for 2-3 minutes, then add the ginger and spring onion.

2. Place a teaspoon of filling in the centre of each wonton wrapper, fold into a triangle, then bring the two outer corners together under the filling and press, forming a little "folded arms" shape.

3. Toast the Sichuan pepper in a dry pan for 1 minute, then grind finely; crush the garlic.

4. For the sauce, mix the chilli oil, ground Sichuan pepper, garlic, black rice vinegar, soy sauce and sugar and divide between the bottoms of the bowls.

5. Cook the wontons in rapidly boiling water for 3-4 minutes until they float, then lift out with a slotted spoon onto the sauce.

6. Toss, sprinkle with the spring onion greens and serve immediately.

Tip: A favourite snack of Chengdu; "chaoshou" means "folded arms", after the shape of the fold. The numbing, citrusy Sichuan pepper is the point – it's strongest freshly toasted and ground.