1. In a wide pan bring 1 litre of water to the boil with 300 g of the sugar and the lemon juice.
2. Peel the apples and core them with an apple corer or small knife, keeping the base intact; add the peel and cores to the syrup.
3. Stand the apples in the simmering syrup and cook for 8-12 minutes, turning once carefully, until tender but whole (test with a toothpick); lift out and stand on a plate to cool.
4. Coarsely grind the walnuts and mix with the remaining sugar and 3-4 tablespoons of syrup; use to fill the centres of the apples.
5. Boil the syrup (without the peel) for 10-15 minutes until thick, pour over the apples and chill for at least 2 hours.
6. To serve, whip the cream with the vanilla sugar, pipe a mound on top of each apple and drizzle with a little syrup.
Tip: Tufahije came to Bosnia in Ottoman times – the name comes from the Persian 'tuffāḥ' (apple). It's the jewel of the display cases in Sarajevo's pastry shops (slastičarna); firm, tart apples give the prettiest result.
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