Upside-down chicken, rice and aubergine (Maqluba)

1. Rinse the rice and soak for 30 minutes. Put the chicken thighs on to boil with the quartered onion and the water and simmer for 30 minutes; strain the broth and season with the turmeric, allspice, cinnamon and salt.

2. Slice the aubergines and potatoes into rounds and break the cauliflower into florets, salt them and fry in batches in the hot oil until golden (or brush with oil and roast in the oven).

3. Lay the chicken pieces in the bottom of a large, deep pan, layer the fried vegetables on top, then spread the drained rice evenly over them.

4. Carefully pour in enough spiced broth to cover by a finger's width, bring to the boil, then cover and cook over very low heat for 30-35 minutes until the rice is tender.

5. Take off the heat, rest for 10 minutes, then place a large platter on top and flip it over in one confident movement; leave the pan on for a few minutes, then lift it off carefully.

6. Sprinkle with toasted pine nuts and serve with yoghurt and a cucumber-tomato salad.

Tip: "Maqluba" means upside down: the moment of flipping is a shared joy for everyone at the table. Lining the bottom of the pan with a circle of baking paper ensures the chicken won't stick. You can add peppers instead of or alongside the cauliflower.