Ukrainian millet stew with bacon (Kulish)

1. Rinse the millet in a sieve with hot water several times until the water runs clear – this removes its slightly bitter taste.

2. Bring the water to the boil in a pot, add the millet and simmer over low heat for 15 minutes.

3. Add the diced potatoes, season with salt and cook for another 15 minutes, until the potatoes are tender and the millet has broken down and thickened the liquid.

4. Meanwhile render the diced bacon in a frying pan, add the finely chopped onion and fry until golden brown.

5. Stir the bacon and onion with their fat into the porridge, season with pepper and cook together for 5 more minutes; kulish is right when it's thick and spoonable, halfway between a soup and a porridge.

6. Sprinkle with fresh dill and serve piping hot with rye bread.

Tip: Kulish was the camp food of the Zaporozhian Cossacks: cooked in a single cauldron over an open fire from whatever was to hand – it's still best made in a kettle outdoors.