Tomato and egg stir-fry (Xihongshi chao jidan)

1. Beat the eggs with the pinch of salt and the Shaoxing rice wine until frothy; cut the tomatoes into wedges and the spring onions into rings, setting aside the green parts.

2. Heat the 3 tablespoons of oil in the wok over high heat, pour in the eggs, let the edges puff up, then push them into soft, loose curds with a few broad strokes.

3. While the eggs are still slightly runny, slide them onto a plate.

4. In the remaining oil, fry the white parts of the spring onions for half a minute, add the tomatoes and stir-fry for 2-3 minutes until they release their juice and start to break down.

5. Stir in the sugar, salt, ketchup and water and cook for 1 minute to make a juicy sauce; return the eggs and fold through gently.

6. Sprinkle with the spring onion greens and serve with steamed rice.

Tip: This is the most popular dish of Chinese home cooking, and almost every family makes it differently. The sugar isn't optional – it brings out the tomato flavour; if you use very ripe, flavourful tomatoes, you can skip the ketchup.