Sushi rice (Sushi meshi)

1. Swirl the rice with your hand in a bowl of cold water, pour off the cloudy water and repeat 4-5 times until the water is almost clear; drain in a sieve for 15 minutes.

2. Put the rice into a heavy-based pot with the water and kombu and soak for 30 minutes.

3. Bring to the boil with the lid on, remove the kombu and cook on the lowest possible heat for 12 minutes; turn off the heat and rest for 10 minutes without lifting the lid.

4. Meanwhile warm the rice vinegar with the sugar and salt over low heat until they dissolve (don't boil), then let it cool.

5. Tip the hot rice into a wide wooden or glass bowl, pour over the vinegar mixture and fold it in with a wooden spoon using cutting, turning strokes – not stirring – while fanning it to cool.

6. When it's glossy and at body temperature, cover with a damp tea towel and use within 2 hours for sushi, onigiri or chirashizushi.

Tip: Good sushi rice has separate, glossy grains and a gently sweet-sour taste. Don't refrigerate it, as it hardens – keep it covered at room temperature.