Steamed scallops with garlic and glass noodles (Suanrong zheng shanbei)

1. Soak the glass noodles in lukewarm water for 15 minutes, drain and cut shorter with scissors; rinse the scallops, pat dry and sprinkle with the Shaoxing rice wine.

2. Very finely chop the garlic; fry half of it gently in 2 tablespoons of oil for 1-2 minutes until golden, then mix with the raw garlic, salt and sugar.

3. Divide the noodles in small heaps on a deep heatproof plate (or in the scallop shells), place a scallop on each and top with a spoonful of the garlic mixture.

4. Steam over rapidly boiling water for 5-6 minutes until the scallops are just cooked and turn from translucent to white.

5. Meanwhile warm the soy sauce with a little water and drizzle over the scallops; sprinkle with sliced spring onion and chopped chilli.

6. Heat the remaining oil until smoking and pour it sizzling over the scallops; serve immediately.

Tip: A festive starter of Cantonese seaside restaurants, spectacular served in the shell. Don't oversteam the scallops or they turn rubbery; the final hot oil "wakes up" the aroma of the garlic and spring onion.