Steamed egg custard (Gyeran-jjim)

1. Simmer the dried anchovies in the water for 10 minutes, strain and let cool until lukewarm.

2. Beat the eggs thoroughly with the salt without making them frothy, then stir in the lukewarm anchovy stock and pass through a sieve to make the custard silky.

3. Stir in the very finely chopped carrot and half of the spring onion.

4. Pour the mixture into a small pan or heatproof earthenware bowl and steam over very low heat, covered with a small plate or lid, for 10-12 minutes, until set in the centre but still wobbly.

5. You can also use a steamer: put the bowl over boiling water and steam, covered, for 12-15 minutes.

6. Sprinkle with the rest of the spring onion, drizzle with a few drops of sesame oil and serve hot with a spoon, alongside rice.

Tip: Gyeran-jjim is the soft, comforting companion of Korean meals and is especially welcome next to spicy dishes. The secret is a very low heat: too high and the egg turns spongy and firm. For the puffed-up restaurant version, stir the egg into boiling stock and let it puff up under a lid at the end.