Spanish quince paste (Dulce de membrillo)

1. Rub the fuzzy skin off the quinces with a tea towel, wash them, cut into quarters and cut out the cores (the skin can stay on).

2. Cover the quinces with water in a saucepan and cook for 25-30 minutes until completely soft; drain.

3. Blend with a stick blender to a smooth purée, then weigh it: the sugar should be about 80% of the weight of the purée (for 1 kg purée, 800 g sugar).

4. Put the purée, sugar and lemon juice in a heavy-based saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly (careful, it spits!), for 45-60 minutes until dark amber and a line drawn with a wooden spoon closes slowly.

5. Spread into a square tin lined with baking paper and leave to dry at room temperature for 1-2 days until firm enough to slice.

6. Serve sliced with manchego cheese; wrapped in paper it keeps for weeks in the fridge.

Tip: "Membrillo con queso" is Spain's classic afternoon snack – the quince's own pectin sets it, so no other thickener is needed.