Spaghetti with pecorino and black pepper (Spaghetti cacio e pepe)

1. Grate the pecorino romano very finely (on the finest grater you have) and coarsely crush the black pepper.

2. Bring a pot of water to the boil, but use less water and less salt than usual, as the cheese is salty and the starchy water forms the base of the sauce; take the spaghetti out 2 minutes before the stated time.

3. Meanwhile, toast the pepper in a large dry frying pan for 1 minute until fragrant, then add a ladleful of the pasta water.

4. In a bowl, mix the grated pecorino with a little warm (not hot!) cooking water to a thick cream.

5. Transfer the spaghetti to the peppery pan and cook for another 2 minutes, adding a little cooking water; take off the heat, let it cool for 30 seconds, then spoon over the cheese cream and toss vigorously until you have a creamy, glossy sauce.

6. Serve immediately, topped with a little more pecorino and freshly cracked pepper.

Tip: If the cheese goes lumpy, the pasta was too hot: pecorino "splits" above 65 °C - that's why the short cooling is needed before adding the cheese.