Spaghetti with clams (Spaghetti alle vongole)

1. Soak the clams in cold salted water for 1-2 hours so they release any sand, then rinse thoroughly; discard any that are broken or open.

2. In a large lidded frying pan, fry the garlic and chilli flakes in half the olive oil for 1 minute, add the clams, pour in the white wine, cover and cook over high heat for 3-4 minutes until they open.

3. Lift out the clams (discard any that stay closed), shell most of them and keep a few in their shells for garnish; strain the cooking liquid through a fine sieve or cloth so no sand gets into the pasta.

4. Meanwhile, drain the spaghetti, cooked in plenty of salted water, 2 minutes before the stated time.

5. Pour the clam juices back into the pan, add the spaghetti and finish cooking over high heat for 2 minutes, tossing, until it absorbs most of the liquid; finally add the clams, remaining oil and parsley.

6. Serve at once - by Italian tradition, without cheese.

Tip: The clam juice is the soul of the sauce: cooking the pasta in it soaks up the taste of the sea - that's why you cook the pasta halfway and finish it there.