1. The evening before, make the syrup: bring the sugar to the boil with the water, lemon juice and zest, sliced ginger and cinnamon stick, boil for 5 minutes, cool and chill overnight so it is ice-cold.
2. Mix the flour with the baking powder and salt, rub in the cold butter, then knead into a smooth, soft dough with the milk; cover and rest for 30 minutes.
3. Roll out the dough 5 mm thick, cut it into 8x4 cm rectangles, cut each lengthwise into three strips leaving the top end attached, braid the strips tightly and press the ends together.
4. Heat the oil to 170 °C and fry the braids in batches for 1-2 minutes per side until golden.
5. Dip the hot doughnuts straight from the oil into the ice-cold syrup, leave them for 30 seconds so every pore fills, then lift them onto a rack.
6. Keep the bowl of syrup cold in ice while frying; serve once cooled.
Tip: The koeksister (Afrikaans for little cake) is South Africa's iconic braided doughnut with a crisp crust and a syrupy inside; there is even a statue of one in the town of Orania. The secret is the temperature contrast: hot doughnut, ice-cold syrup, so it stays crisp yet soaks through. It keeps for 4-5 days in an airtight box in the fridge.
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