Slow-cooked wheat and lamb porridge (Keşkek)

1. Soak the hulled wheat overnight in plenty of water.

2. The next day, put the lamb in a large pot with 2 litres of cold water, bring to the boil, skim and simmer covered for 1.5 hours until tender.

3. Remove the meat, take it off the bones and shred it; add the drained wheat to the stock and cook for 1.5 hours, stirring often and adding water as needed.

4. When the wheat has broken down, return the meat, season with salt and pepper and beat with a wooden spoon (or briefly with a stick blender) until thick and stretchy.

5. Just before serving, heat the butter with the chilli flakes until foaming.

6. Spoon the keşkek onto plates and drizzle the spiced butter over the top.

Tip: Keşkek is on UNESCO's intangible heritage list: at weddings it is stirred all night in huge cauldrons. You can use pearl barley instead of hulled wheat.