Saffron risotto Milanese-style (Risotto alla milanese)

1. Bring the stock to the boil and keep it at a gentle simmer throughout; set aside a ladleful and soak the saffron in it.

2. Chop the onion very finely and cook it gently in half the butter in a wide heavy-based pan for 4-5 minutes until translucent - don't let it brown.

3. Add the rice and toast it for 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until the grains are translucent and hot; pour in the white wine and let it evaporate.

4. Add the hot stock a ladleful at a time, adding the next only when the rice has almost absorbed the last, and stir often; after 12 minutes add the saffron stock.

5. After about 17-18 minutes, when the rice is creamy but the grains still have a slight bite, take it off the heat, beat in the remaining cold butter and the grated parmesan and leave covered for 2 minutes ("mantecatura").

6. Serve golden and loose ("all'onda") - it should spread over the plate like a wave.

Tip: In Milan it's traditionally made with bone marrow too, and it's the classic partner for ossobuco; always soak saffron threads beforehand so they give off the most colour.