Russian fish soup (Ukha)

1. Put the carp (with head, tail and bones) into the cold water with the onion, halved carrot, bay leaves and whole peppercorns, bring slowly to the boil, skim off the foam and simmer over low heat for 30 minutes.

2. Strain the stock through a fine sieve (or muslin) so it's completely clear; you can pick the carp flesh off the bones and put it back.

3. Add the diced potatoes to the clear stock, season with salt and cook for 10 minutes.

4. Cut the pike-perch fillet into large pieces, slide them into the soup and poach at a gentle simmer for 8-10 minutes, until the flesh is white and just flakes – don't let it boil hard, or the fish will fall apart.

5. Off the heat, scatter generously with fresh dill and parsley, cover and rest for 5 minutes.

6. Serve piping hot with rye bread; Russian fishermen used to dip a smouldering piece of wood into the soup for a moment before serving, for a smoky flavour.

Tip: Ukha is the oldest Russian soup: the secret is two kinds of fish – one makes a strong, clear stock, and the other's white flesh goes in as the garnish.