Rice vermicelli with fish and coconut curry (Khanom chin nam ya)

1. Put the fish fillet in a pan with the water and simmer over low heat for 6-8 minutes until cooked; lift out and keep the cooking liquid.

2. Finely chop the shallots, garlic, galangal and the soft lower part of the lemongrass, then pound or blend with the fish and red curry paste to a thick, fibrous paste.

3. Bring half the coconut milk to the boil in a pan and cook for 2-3 minutes until a little of its oil separates; stir in the fish paste and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes until fragrant.

4. Pour in the rest of the coconut milk and the fish cooking liquid, season with the fish sauce and palm sugar and simmer over low heat for 10 minutes until thick and saucy.

5. Cook the thin rice vermicelli according to the packet, rinse in cold water and twist into little nests.

6. Put the noodle nests in deep plates, ladle over the fish curry and serve with bean sprouts, cucumber, Thai basil and fresh chilli.

Tip: A breakfast dish of Thai markets: the noodles are served cold, the curry warm, and everyone mixes in the fresh greens themselves. Any white fish works, even frozen.