Rajasthani spicy garlic chutney (Lehsun chutney)

1. Snap the stalks off the dried chillies and soak them in hot water for 20 minutes until soft. Keep the soaking water.

2. Peel the garlic cloves.

3. In a blender or mortar, grind the garlic, soaked chillies, cumin seeds and salt to a thick, smooth paste, adding a little soaking water if needed.

4. Heat the mustard oil in a small pan until it starts to smoke (this removes its raw pungency), then lower the heat slightly.

5. Add the paste and fry, stirring, for 4-5 minutes until the oil separates and it turns deep red and fragrant. Take off the heat and stir in the lemon juice.

6. Once cool, it keeps for a week in a jar in the fridge. Serve in small amounts with bajra roti, dal baati or pakoras.

Tip: The fiery condiment of desert Rajasthan; a knife-tip of it is enough for a whole bowl of dal. Kashmiri chilli gives a deep red colour with moderate heat; if you want it hotter, mix in a few small, hot chillies.