Pike fishcakes (Kotlety iz shchuki)

1. Cut the crust off the roll and soak the inside in the milk; quarter the onion and dice the fatback small.

2. Cut the skinless pike fillet into pieces, removing any visible bones, and mince it twice together with the fatback, onion and squeezed-out bread (or blitz everything in a food processor).

3. Add the egg to the mixture, season with salt and pepper and work it thoroughly for a few minutes, even slapping it back into the bowl several times so it becomes firm and springy; if it's too soft, mix in a few breadcrumbs.

4. With wet hands, shape 8-10 oval patties and roll them in breadcrumbs.

5. Fry in the hot oil over medium heat for 4-5 minutes per side until golden; if they are thick, cover and cook over low heat for another 3-4 minutes at the end so they're cooked through.

6. Serve with mashed or boiled potatoes or buckwheat, dill-flavoured sour cream and pickled cucumbers.

Tip: Pike is lean and full of small, fork-shaped bones – that's exactly why mincing twice is traditional, as it grinds the bones completely; the fatback provides the juiciness.