Mussels stuffed with spiced rice (Midye dolma)

1. Soak the rice in warm salted water for 20 minutes, then drain.

2. Cook the finely chopped onions in the oil for 10 minutes, add the pine nuts, tomato purée, rice, raisins, spices, salt and sugar; pour in 200 ml of hot water and cook for 8-10 minutes until absorbed (the rice should stay half-cooked), then let it cool.

3. Scrub the mussels thoroughly and pull off the beards; discard any that are open or cracked.

4. With a sharp knife, carefully open each mussel at the side (without separating the shells) and fill it with a teaspoon of stuffing, then close it.

5. Pack them tightly in layers in a pot, weigh them down with a plate, add 200 ml of water and steam covered for 20 minutes until the rice is tender.

6. Serve cold with lemon wedges: scoop out the mussel with the top shell and squeeze lemon over it.

Tip: A favourite of Istanbul's waterfront stalls, where the vendor opens each one and squeezes on the lemon. Use only live mussels with closed shells.