1. Soak the saffron in 2 tbsp hot water; grate the onions or chop them very finely, crush the garlic and chop the herbs.
2. In a bowl, toss the chicken thighs with half the onion, the garlic, ground ginger, turmeric, saffron water, half the herbs, the olive oil, salt and pepper; marinate for at least 30 minutes (or overnight).
3. In a tagine or a wide heavy-based pan, turn the chicken with the marinade and the rest of the onion over medium heat for 5 minutes until the onion is translucent.
4. Pour in the water, cover and simmer over low heat for 45 minutes, turning the meat from time to time; the onion breaks down into a thick, golden sauce.
5. Remove the seeds from the preserved lemon, cut the peel into strips and add to the chicken with the olives; cook uncovered for another 10-15 minutes until the sauce thickens.
6. Sprinkle with the remaining herbs and serve in the tagine with fresh bread (khobz).
Tip: Djej mqualli is a cornerstone of Moroccan festive and everyday cooking: mqualli means the saffron-ginger sauce thickened with onion. The salty-sour, intense taste of preserved lemon is irreplaceable; don't add the pulp, as it's bitter. Taste before salting, as the olives and lemon are salty too.
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