Mingrelian cheesy cornmeal porridge (Elarji)

1. Bring 1.2 litres of water to the boil in a heavy-based pan and salt lightly.

2. Sprinkle in the gomi (millet grits) in a thin stream, stirring all the time so it doesn't form lumps, then cook over low heat, stirring often, for 25-30 minutes until you have a thick, smooth porridge.

3. Meanwhile coarsely grate the sulguni or tear it into small pieces.

4. Keeping the porridge on the heat, add the cheese a little at a time and stir vigorously in one direction with a wooden spoon – the cheese melts and the porridge turns into an elastic, stretchy, glossy mass that pulls into strands behind the spoon.

5. Keep stirring until the porridge is evenly smooth and comes away from the sides of the pan (5-8 minutes); if it's too thick, add a little hot water.

6. Serve at once, piping hot – dip the spoon in water to scoop it – traditionally with bazhe walnut sauce or satsivi and roast meats.

Tip: Elarji is the pride of Mingrelian feasts, and it's right when it pulls into metre-long strands. If you can't find gomi, use cornmeal (polenta) and replace the sulguni with mozzarella and a little feta.