Lamb baked in parchment with feta (Kleftiko)

1. Cut the leg of lamb into large pieces, about 5 cm, and make small slits in the meat with a sharp knife.

2. Slice the garlic and push the slices into the slits; rub the meat with the lemon juice, oregano, half the olive oil, salt and pepper, and marinate for at least 2 hours.

3. Peel the potatoes, cut them into large wedges and toss with the rest of the oil, salt and pepper.

4. Lay two sheets of baking parchment crosswise in a roasting tin, pile the potatoes and meat on top, tuck the bay leaves in between and crumble the feta over.

5. Fold the paper tightly into a sealed parcel and bake at 160 °C for 3.5 hours, until the meat falls apart at the touch of a fork.

6. Open the parcel, bake at 200 °C for another 15-20 minutes to brown, then serve drizzled with the juices from the tin.

Tip: Kleftiko is the dish of the klephts, the bandits hiding in the mountains: they cooked the meat covered and buried so the smoke wouldn't give them away. You can wrap the parcel in foil too – just keep the paper on the inside.